Staffa, a humbling island

I feel privileged to be exploring Staffa at leisure. My fascination grows with each visit. I have had many memorable adventures so far, including identifying otter trails leading to remote beaches, collecting fresh water from a hidden spring, and inspecting shags nesting in sea caves. All the while admiring the incredible array of colours, textures, shapes, and sounds exhibited across the island.

I am truly loving moments of exploration, of solitude and calm, but what I am enjoying most is watching people engage with the reserve. Recently, when walking along the causeway, I heard singing coming from Fingal’s Cave. On entering I encountered a group of women huddled together, harmonising angelically. The cave has exceptional acoustics and their voices reverberated around the natural cathedral. I now fully understand why it received its Gaelic name An Uamh Bhin – meaning the melodious cave. Witnessing this musical collaboration gave me shivers up my arms. It was a beautiful reminder of the power of connecting with nature through music.

Observing people, observing puffins, has become a favourite monitoring activity of mine. A particularly remarkable behaviour the seabirds exhibit – and what Donald B. MacCulloch, author of The Wondrous Isle of Staffa described as a ‘puffin procession’ – is when a group take flight from the ocean and circle the air, passing close to the cliff face then out towards the water. The spectacle often results in visitors being awed into silence or gasping with excitement. Hands cover mouths. Intrigue and curiosity follow. Last week, in reaction to seeing puffins for the first time, a young boy mirrored the procession, spontaneously and energetically running in circles with arms out flapping.

Every day I am reminded of the profound impact nature has on humans, as I watch visitors ponder geological formations and investigate wildlife. Some people sit and sketch. Others kayak around the coast. The island continues to captivate, every day evoking wonder and inspiring creativity and adventure.